Brazil is home to one of the most beautiful tropical islands off the coast of Rio de Janeiro, Ilha Grande (Big Island). When traveling, a common expression you hear from locals in each country is, “You must go to…You can’t leave without visiting…” which never fails to leave a passionate heart wanting more. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to visit everywhere on one journey, but we did our best to fit this particular one in on the route. So, we returned to Brazil after Peru to spend a couple days on the island and see what all the hype was about. Although our plans were last minute and we lost a few flights along the way due to weather conditions, Ilha Grande was wonderful (especially after the trekking on the Inca Trail) and exceeded every one of our expectations.
There are a couple ways to reach Ihla Grande and all quite inexpensive. We purchased a bus ticket via Costa Verde the morning of our departure and found it to be quite comfortable and luxurious. Everyone must first travel by road to one of the three ports that take you to the island via ferry or water taxi. However, the port really depends on your accommodations. Many visit the busy and popular city of Angra Dos Reis and find a boat transfer to the island for day trips, which is absolutely possible. For us, it was a Pousada (Inn) on the island and not far from the island center, Vila do Abraão (village of Abraão). As a result, we got off the bus at Conceição de Jacareí (about 45 minutes before Angra) and took a fast 20-minute speedboat to Ihla Grande.
The island itself is comprised of dirt roads and a few local bars/shops on Vila do Abraão. The scene was casual and relaxing when we visited, but is known to be quite the opposite during the summer months. With very little connection to the real world, you truly feel at peace in the midst of such paradise. According to our lovely hosts at Pousada Ouro Verde, there are approximately 95 beaches on Ihla Grande and many of which demand physical work before enjoying. A hike, boat ride, or both are usually required for some of the most pristine sites on the island. We managed to do a little bit of everything in such a short time and even had a nice dinner with friends who we happened to run into unexpectedly.
As it turns out, we were rather lucky with the beautiful sunshine during our three-day stay and enjoyed each day to the fullest. From black sand to white sand beaches, tranquil natural pools to waves and snorkeling, colorful sunsets and delicious local cuisine, Ihla Grande proved to be breathtaking. Among our favorites were trekking to Lopes Mendes beach (rated #1 by many sources), Lagoa Azul (Blue Lagoon), Lagoa Verde (Green Lagoon), and the exciting full-day speedboat ride around the island that offered spectacular views and stops along the way.
One of South America’s most stunning places and home to the refreshing caipirinha, endless churrasquerías, white-sand beaches, immaculate rain forests and of course, the undeniably beautiful sun kissed bodies. Like most who have not yet visited the country of Brazil, we were eager at the mere thought of having this on our agenda. This is, after all, the exotically attractive destination of which we all spot in travel magazines, see in movies and perhaps even dream about (for those of us who do that sort of thing). For us, there was also a sense of curiosity because we had been mistaken for Brazilians ever since we started our travels. For the record, neither of us speaks nor understands Portuguese. Luckily for us, Spanish and English are accepted equally.
We arrived in the country at about midnight and like most first timers, were a bit skeptical about taking a taxi this late given the safety issues we were warned about prior to our visit. In fact, we had heard horrible things about Rio and the truth is, most are true. So, the trick is to take care of your belongings, don’t carry too many valuables and be mindful of your surroundings at all times. It’s obviously not rocket science and should be a practice everywhere you go. For us world travelers, we don’t carry much, never look flashy and hardly ever go looking for trouble. Thankfully, we have no incidents to comment on thus far and truthfully, we found the locals to be rather friendly and helpful. Our goal is to go with the flow of the people and in this country it’s all about making the most of each day and living the good life.
Our days in Rio were relaxing and normally began with a large Açaí Tigela (Acai bowl) from the nearby and popular restaurant BIBI. In addition to the famous Brazilian steakhouses, which we found to be better in Argentina, the deep purple blueberry type frozen acai bowl is a traditional Brazilian phenomenon. The bowl is usually topped with banana and granola and definitely deserves all the hype, as it is absolutely delicious. After a fully satisfied appetite on a particular Sunday morning, there was not much left for the imagination as we walked out of the restaurant and strolled the streets of Copacabana. People lying half naked on the beach, Futevôlei (combination of beach volleyball and soccer) that is worth watching, beach bars serving fresh drinks and walks on the beach with incredible sand sculptures and views of sugarloaf mountain. Inspired by this vibrant city full of life in color, we began to check off some bucket list items. Once, the world’s largest soccer stadium with record-breaking standing capacity, and currently the most iconic stadium in South America, Maracanã abides in the center of Rio de Janeiro. For safety reasons, the stadium is now a sitting venue but still remains the mecca for soccer in Brazil. Our Maracanã experience was nothing less than impressive. Getting there from Copacabana was simple thanks to the city’s top of the line Subway which stops directly in front of the stadium. We started with a tour of the locker rooms where jerseys from different players of the 2014 World Cup were displayed. We continued towards the tunnel leading to the magnificent field where breathing becomes heavy after thinking of all the legends that dribbled a soccer ball in that same stadium. Legends like Garrincha, Zico, and Pele. To stand here, imagining the crowd cheering with relentless passion for the sport that represents the country of Brazil and so many others worldwide is just surreal. Weather a soccer fan or not, this stop is a must.
Another memorable experience consisted of visiting the obvious tourist attractions: Christ the Redeemer Statue, Sugar Loaf Mountain and the Sambódromo (carnival parade stadium in Brazil where samba schools parade competitively each year). As we made our way to these world wonders, it was impossible to ignore the colorful hillside Favelas (a slum or shanty town in Brazil; predominantly in Rio and São Paolo). Perhaps just as famous as some of the city’s top tourist attractions, Favelas are becoming more attractive because they provide a completely different perspective to the cultural reality of Brazil. Although we did not visit a favela, we are interested to learn more about these developments and compare with what we have seen and will continue to see in other countries. We hope to share some insight in future blog posts.
Christ the Redeemer was absolutely stunning! Much bigger than we had imagined and truly a beautiful work of art that overlooks the January River (Rio de Janeiro). There are three ways to reach the statue on Corcovado mountain: train, hike and car. We went up by car and spent some extra time at the café on top, enjoying a bowl of acai and overlooking the man himself. We would say this was the highlight of the trip, but unfortunately the spectacular views from Sugar Loaf Mountain and the cable car experience certainly act as a competitor. Somehow, we managed to make it to Sugarloaf at sunset and spent an evening staring over a beautifully glowing city from the top of the mountain.
Although these top tourist attractions have earned their respective stars on trip advisor and lonely planet, the main highlight during our time in Rio was an 8-hour hike in the Tijuca tropical rain forest and National Park. Sounds absolutely nuts right? Well, it was. The hike itself was not a walk in the park. It was physically challenging and we couldn’t have done it without an expert guide who led us to some of the highest peaks. The Tijuca Forest comprises the largest urban forest in the world and is considered a World Heritage Site. While the forest provides a combination of waterfalls, plants, flowers, birds, viewing platforms, trails, insects, spiders, snakes, exotic wildlife and much more, the panoramic views of the city from up above are absolutely unreal and make the visit that much more memorable.
Rio de Janeiro was a wonderful introduction to the country of Brazil and has left a long lasting impression. We are eager to experience more of this beautiful country and look forward to our return.
Fun fact: Cindy was stung by a bee twice in one day, nearly ended up in a hospital due to an allergic reaction and was two seconds short of being hit by a public bus.
Before we began the Inca Trail and after the most challenging hike of our life, we walked the beautiful streets of Cusco and fell in love with its rustic charm and character. We indulged in the delicious peruvian cuisine and had quinoa in practically every meal (quinoa soup, quinoa salad, quinoa patties, quinoa cookies, etc). In fact, we considered ourselves part-time vegans. We had lunch at our favorite vegan restaurant named Green Point every single day. In Cusco, it is common to find a set lunch/dinner menu in almost every restaurant. The menu at Green Point for lunch was a total of 24 soles for two, or eight dollars. This included salad, soup, main course, dessert, drink and as it that were not enough, the food was absolutely delicious! What we didn’t try was the traditional delicacy, Cuy (guinea pig). There is no explanation, we just couldn’t do it.
Cusco was the first city in our travels where we did not worry about safety. Going out in the evening, walking on the streets, taking out a camera, money, riding in taxis, speaking to locals, it never felt dangerous. The city depends so much on tourism and therefore, welcomes visitors and provides sincere and friendly service. Unfortunately, we cannot say the same about Lima. In addition, we experienced it to be extremely cost effective. Although most of our time was spent in a private room at someone’s house (Airbnb), it was not expensive and exposed us to the true local experience.
Surrounded by wonderful culture and history, Cusco is an amazing destination to visit. We hope you enjoy this short video of the colorful city.
To see more of Cusco please visit the Peru Photo Gallery (click here). And don’t forget to add your email below to follow our journey if you haven’t already.
Why hike the Inca Trail when you can take the train to Aguas Calientes and catch the bus to Machu Picchu like most people? Three months ago we were thinking, we have the time so, why not? After all, it is considered one of the most famous treks in South America and is rated quite high worldwide. Now, after completing what we can best describe as the most challenging couple days, we realize there is so much more to the Inca Trail than we ever anticipated. Somehow, in just 27 miles, it manages to combine a magnificent mountain landscape, sub-tropical jungle, dreamlike cloud forests, impressive Inca ruins and an appreciation for existence as we walk in the footsteps of the Inca to the ultimate reward, the magical lost city of Macchu Picchu. This has been, by far, the most physically demanding experience for both of us and yet, the most inspiring!
For safety reasons and reliability, we booked a tour. Side note: tours must be booked well in advance as there are only a certain number of permits allowed per day on the Inca Trail. We were lucky to book only 5 months before and guarantee a spot. This particular tour consisted of a four-day (three night) trek to Machu Picchu and three additional nights exploring nearby cities and ruins. Or, so we thought. During our first team meeting we were told we would be completing the trek in three days, instead of four, because one of the campsites had collapsed due to a landslide. This meant longer days with accelerated trekking, less time acclimating to the high altitude and less recovery time between treks. Let’s just say we were not jumping up and down at the idea.
Despite this setback and rigorous challenge, we were lucky to share this experience with a group of people that we couldn’t have hand picked better ourselves. We quickly became an Allyu (Qechua word meaning family). We were supportive, encouraging, on pitch (for those who were singing throughout the trail) and helped the team remain positive and excited till the end. In addition to the 15 in our Allyu, we had an amazing team of approx. 25 porters who completed the same trail as us except carrying 25 kilos each! Yes, that’s about 50 pounds. Some carried our duffel bags (13 pounds allowed per person including sleeping bag, etc.) others carried tents, kitchen equipment, food and water. We could not have thanked them enough. Watching them pass us up on the trail carrying so much not only motivated us to keep going, but made us respect their job and cheerful attitude despite the circumstances. Of course, it wasn’t very long before Enoc became best friends with all the porters. Ultimately, the people we met and relationships we formed were the true reward on this trail.
Day 1: Cusco-first team meeting and orientation. Enoc and I had already spent three nights in Cusco getting used to the high
altitude (11,150 ft.) and took the appropriate medication prior to the hike. For the record, altitude sickness is not fun and so many people who visit Cusco suffer from one or more symptoms. The first couple of days it was difficult to complete a sentence due to the low level of oxygen at this altitude. Enoc had the terrible headache that most people experience, but by this day we were ready to go!
Day 2: It was an early wake up call at our hotel, hearty breakfast and off to our starting point at Km 82. We were feeling confident toward the beginning, but did not expect the first trekking day to be so much of an incline and began to worry about soreness for the next day. A total of seven hours on the Inca Trail and 9.1 miles later, we were finally at our first campsite and were prepared to freeze to death as the temperature dropped drastically. This was also where we were introduced to the horrible squat toilets. In the midst of mountains, the porters prepared delicious food and made it extremely difficult to limit consumption. No electricity, but amazing food, ironic! So, yes, squatting was the only option unless you chose the women or men’s bush.
Are you wondering about showers? We practiced the wet wipes showers on the trail. Unless you were seeking to catch pneumonia using freezing cold water in freezing cold weather, you were in your tent wiping down to freshness.
Day 3: Five a.m. wake up call with Inca Trail best practice, coca tea. Drinking coca tea and chewing coca leaves was recommended multiple times per day to help prevent altitude sickness and provide energy. We didn’t sleep very well the first night, but we were ready to face the most difficult day on the trail with a smile on our face. Four hours of combined steps and incline early in the morning leading us to the highest peak on the trail known as Dead Women’s Pass at 13, 800 ft. The last two hours of nothing but steps were brutal. Somehow, we managed to keep a positive attitude and appreciate the incredible scenery on the way up. Besides my nose bleeding throughout the day because of the altitude, we felt great after reaching this high peak. One hundred pictures later, it was time to head downhill for three hours. This was possibly harder than the uphill for many of us.
This day was significant because I had to pee in the bushes for the first time ever in my life. I know, shocking. After a total of 10 hours and 9.1 miles later, we reached our second campsite and nearly kissed the tent. This day was by far the most challenging physically, mentally and every other way. However, the location of the campsite helped us get over it quick. This setting was absolutely breathtaking, but even colder than the first campsite. I think we used everything in our duffel bags that night and layered up.
Day 4: Five thirty a.m. wake up call, coca tea and warm water to wash your face delivered right outside your tent. After a fantastic breakfast and a quick stop at the squat toilets, we were hyped to start this day on the trail knowing we would arrive at the Sun Gate before sunset and catch our first views of the much anticipated Machu Picchu. After about seven hours and nine miles through cloud forest, jungle and too much steep uphill and downhill, the beautiful sight of Machu Picchu amazed us. Some of us were even emotional (totally talking about myself). After this surreal moment and one thousand pictures later, we checked in at a hotel in Aguas Calientes and had a decent shower and most importantly, our kind of toilets.
Day 5: An early morning to enter the lost city for a guided tour and enjoy more exploring on our own. After conquering the Inca Trail, in the midst of clouds, mountains, ruins, llamas and so much history, you can’t help but feel grateful to be standing before such wonder. A magical day indeed. After our visit, we enjoyed a scenic train ride along the beautiful Urubamba River to Ollantaytambo where we stayed for the night.
Day 6: Unfortunately, Enoc and others on our trip suffered from a terrible stomach virus early this morning. In fact, we started dropping like flies later that evening. Still, we managed to push forward and explore the beautiful ruins in the Sacred Valley that were absolutely stunning making it the perfect way to end this adventure.
Day 7: Cusco-dinner and goodbyes. This experience will forever be a memorable one!
Buenos Aires is vibrant, sophisticated and attractive. Surrounded by tall trees, profound art, exceptional food, classical buildings, European charm and Latin American edge, it is no surprise why people fall in love with this city. For us, it was like finding a long lost love.
Argentina, and Buenos Aires in particular, is home to some of the most passionate and honest people we have met during our travels. Passionate because whether the topic was food, geography, authors, wine or soccer (this is when true colors are shown) our local friends would articulate in a way that seemed as though it was the bottom of the ninth and the bases were loaded. A bit edgy and bold, but still friendly.
We were lucky to experience this beautiful country for nearly a month and while in Buenos Aires, rented a studio flat in the most chic and creative neighborhood (barrio) of Palermo. In fact, one of the many things we love about this city are the distinct barrios that make up Buenos Aires. Each barrio offers a unique style and personal character. I would be lying if I said we didn’t have a favorite because Palermo became like home and most definitely a favorite. Only a five minute walk from the subte (train station) in Plaza Italia and another five minutes to trendy cafés, bars, restaurants, and an exciting nightlife. Does it sound appealing yet? Let me elaborate. Food, shopping, wine, book stores, music and afternoon tea all on the same street!
Needless to say, it was difficult to stay on budget but we were able to manage. Some days consisted of cooking and sitting on our balcony embracing the local lifestyle while others consisted of walking and experiencing the city. No matter how far and how long we walked, it was never boring. Here are a few things that were most impressive.
La Recoleta Cemetery- We have never seen anything like this before. It was quite incredible. You can actually tour the underground tombs, but no way! It was already a bit creepy above ground.
The Teatro Colón- An emotional and spectacular experience. We were so happy to get tickets for the Opera show: Werther. We now understand why this theater is ranked amongst the most famous in the world. Absolutely breathtaking.
Tango- A dinner show and Tango is a must when visiting Buenos Aires. Besides the passionate, precise and sexy dancing there was really not much more to it (I think I even dropped my empanada at one point). Stunning!
Casa Rosada (featured image) and Plaza de Mayo- Talk about a picnic spot! This 16th-century plaza is surrounded by classical and monumental buildings like the notorious Casa Rosada (presidential palace).
MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires)- The Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires should be at the top of your list when visiting. A modern museum that will change your perspective on art and Latin America. So inspiring!
El Ateneo Bookstore- The most beautiful bookstore we have ever seen. Enjoyed a cappuccino at the cafe/stage and lunch all amidst thousands of books displayed inside an old theater.
La Boca and El Caminito- An artsy and legendary walk that is not worth all the hype in our opinion. We were there for about two hours and visited the soccer stadium which was a bit more exciting than El Caminito.
Food
One must be a night owl when visiting Argentina. The first night we went out to dinner, we were rejected three times because restaurants were not open until 8 pm. Adjusting to this schedule was a bit complicated. So, we did what anyone else would do in our situation, added a fourth (sometimes fifth) meal. Oh, the sacrifices. Even so, it was definitely worth the wait.
We have never eaten so much meat in our life. Hands down, the best steaks we have ever tasted. The traditional “parrilla” (grilled on wood or charcoal fire) gives it a unique taste and a tenderness that makes the meat melt in your mouth.
In addition to the perfectly cooked steaks, the following were among our favorites.
Pizza- We were so surprised to find such delicious Pizza in Buenos Aires! Locals eat pizza with a thin slice of Fainá, a garbanzo flatbread. The traditional Fainá is quite popular in Argentina. That’s right, Carb on top of Carb! An interesting combination.
Empanadas- A complete cooked dish stuffed inside a baked (sometimes fried) savory bread! These were dangerous. Empanadas were sold across the street from our flat and snack time consisted of 2 empanadas each. Delicious!
Dulce de Leche- Although you can find it across the world, the country best known for its dulce de leche is Argentina. Even though it was a bit to sweet for our taste, we had it on a spoon, in a crepe, in ice cream, on cake…When in Rome right?
Our first impression of South America was nothing short of amazing. Ciao Argentina! Click here to visit the photo gallery and see more pictures in Buenos Aires.
e Inca Trail than we ever anticipated. Somehow, in just 27 miles, it manages to combine a magnificent mountain landscape, sub-tropical jungle, dreamlike cloud forests, impressive Inca ruins and an appreciation for existence as we walk in the footsteps of the Inca to the ultimate reward, the magical lost city of Macchu Picchu. This has been, by far, the most physically demanding experience for both of us and yet, the most inspiring!
This is Life in Color 