We Cry For You Argentina

Buenos Aires is vibrant, sophisticated and attractive. Surrounded by tall trees, profound art, exceptional food, classical buildings, European charm and Latin American edge, it is no surprise why people fall in love with this city. For us, it was like finding a long lost love.

Argentina, and Buenos Aires in particular, is home to some of the most passionate and honest people we have met during our travels. Passionate because whether the topic was food, geography, authors, wine or soccer (this is when IMG_5577true colors are shown) our local friends would articulate in a way that seemed as though it was the bottom of the ninth and the bases were loaded. A bit edgy and bold, but still friendly.

We were lucky to experience this beautiful country for nearly a month and while in Buenos Aires, rented a studio flat in the most chic and creative neighborhood (barrio) of Palermo. In fact, one of the many things we love about this city are the distinct barrios that make up Buenos Aires. Each barrio offers a unique style and personal character. I would be lying if I said we didn’t have a favorite because Palermo became like home and most definitely a favorite. Only a five minute walk from the subte (train station) in Plaza Italia and another five minutes to trendy cafés, bars, restaurants, and an exciting nightlife. Does it sound appealing yet? Let me elaborate. Food, shopping, wine, book stores, music and afternoon tea all on the same street!

Needless to say, it was difficult to stay on budget but we were able to manage. Some days consisted of cooking and sitting on our balcony embracing the local lifestyle while others consisted of walking and experiencing the city. No matter how far and how long we walked, it was never boring. Here are a few things that were most impressive.

La Recoleta Cemetery- We have never seen anything like this before. It was quite incredible. You can actually tour the underground tombs, but no way! It was already a bit creepy above ground.

The Teatro Colón- An emotional and spectacular experience. We were so happy to get tickets for the Opera show: Werther. We now understand why this theater is ranked amongst the most famous in the world. Absolutely breathtaking.IMG_5662

Tango- A dinner show and Tango is a must when visiting Buenos Aires. Besides the passionate, precise and sexy dancing there was really not much more to it  (I think I even dropped my empanada at one point). Stunning!

Casa Rosada (featured image) and Plaza de Mayo- Talk about a picnic spot! This 16th-century plaza is surrounded by classical and monumental buildings like the notorious Casa Rosada (presidential palace).

MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires)- The Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires should be at the top of your list when visiting. A modern museum that will change your perspective on art and Latin America. So inspiring!

El Ateneo Bookstore- The most beautiful bookstore we have ever seen. Enjoyed a cappuccino at the cafe/stage and lunch all amidst thousands of books displayed inside an old theater.

La Boca and El Caminito- An artsy and legendary walk that is not worth all the hype in our opinion. We were there for about two hours and visited the soccer stadium which was a bit more exciting than El Caminito.DCIM100GOPROGOPR1551.

Food


One must be a night owl when visiting Argentina. The first night we went out to dinner, we were rejected three times because restaurants were not open until 8 pm. Adjusting to this schedule was a bit complicated. So, we did what anyone else would do in our situation, added a fourth (sometimes fifth) meal. Oh, the sacrifices. Even so, it was definitely worth the wait.IMG_5602

We have never eaten so much meat in our life. Hands down, the best steaks we have ever tasted. The traditional “parrilla” (grilled on wood or charcoal fire) gives it a unique taste and a tenderness that makes the meat melt in your mouth.

In addition to the perfectly cooked steaks, the following were among our favorites.

Pizza- We were so surprised to find such delicious Pizza in Buenos Aires! Locals eat pizza with a thin slice of Fainá, a garbanzo flatbread. The traditional Fainá is quite popular in Argentina. That’s right, Carb on top of Carb! An interesting combination.

Empanadas- A complete cooked dish stuffed inside a baked (sometimes fried) savory bread! These were dangerous. Empanadas were sold across the street from our flat and snack time consisted of 2 empanadas each. Delicious!

Dulce de Leche- Although you can find it across the world, the country best known for its dulce de leche is Argentina. Even though it was a bit to sweet for our taste, we had it on a spoon, in a crepe, in ice cream, on cake…When in Rome right?

Argentina’s Malbec- Click here to see our post on Mendoza and the delicious wine.


Our first impression of South America was nothing short of amazing. Ciao Argentina! Click here to visit the photo gallery and see more pictures in Buenos Aires.


The Magical Mist of Iguazu

You may have heard, read or maybe even had the pleasure of visiting this incredible natural wonder of the world. Composed of over 275 waterfalls, the Iguazu Falls (also known as Iguazú Falls, Iguassu Falls, or Iguaçu Falls) are simply spectacular. Visiting the national park is an entirely different world and will seem like a dream. This is truly a magical and extraordinary experience that you don’t want to miss. So, if you haven’t done so already, add it to the bucket list.

The Iguazu (meaning “big water”) Falls are waterfalls of the Iguazu River bordering three countries: Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. Although many would agree that Argentina provides a better experience of the falls, we think visiting the Brazilian side is just as important.DCIM100GOPROG0052146. The Brazilian side presents an amazing panoramic view of the falls and allows you to get up close and personal with the Devil’s Throat (La Garganta del Diablo). This 80 meter drop with a massive combination of cascades is perhaps the most famous for tourists when visiting the park. It certainly was for us. Although you only need about three hours to be surrounded by all the cloudy mist the Brazilian side has to offer, it is worth the visit and completely different from the Argentinian side.

From the Argentinian side, you can experience the falls to the fullest and enjoy an entire day inside the national park. This side offers several trails and different viewpoints of the falls. You also have the option to get soaking wet on a boat tour that takes you through the River and under the falls. This was definitely the highlight for us. An experience we will never forget. DCIM100GOPROGOPR2268.Here are a few things you should know:

Visiting this UNESCO World Heritage Site is not cheap: We booked a three-day tour that included all transportation (excluding flights to/from Iguazu), hotel accommodations, entrance to both sides of the falls and a professional guide. The falls are in northern Argentina, so the flight from Buenos Aires can be rather expensive. There are many options to take a bus from the city as well, but it is a full 24 hours and requires time. Overall, the trip will cost about $1200 if not more.

Be mindful of Entry Requirements for each country: For US Citizens, Argentina requires a reciprocity fee of 160 USD per person to enter the country, which can be purchased online prior to arrival. Brazil is a bit more complicated for US Citizens. This country requires a visa for entrance. The visa must be processed prior to arrival and costs 160 USD per person. The bright side to this madness is that you can use these to enter/leave the country for up to ten years without having to pay again. To see stunning photos of this incredible place visit the Photo Gallery (click here).


Vines, Blue Skies and Mountain Splendor

Mendoza is the ultimate escape from the noisy and busy city life in Buenos Aires. This picturesque and leafy city is only a two hour flight from Buenos Aires and is home to Argentina’s wine country and the incomparable Malbec. BA to Mendoza MapIn addition to more than 1000 wineries and haute cuisine, visitors arrive year round to join in on the many adventures that the Mendoza area has to offer. Overlooking an incredible view of the Andes mountains, this province is an Argentinian gem in our opinion.

The purpose of our visit was the wine of course, and we felt guilty cheating on our California Cabernet Sauvignon. We were simply enjoying the Malbec that much! Originally from France, we learned that there is a distinctly different personality in the Malbec from Argentina. As a result, Argentina is now home to more than 70% of the Malbec vineyards in the world and is recently becoming popular throughout. DCIM100GOPROGOPR1849.This is precisely what we love about tasting.

In Tuscany, for example, we had a wonderful time tasting Chianti (Sangiovese grape) and learned so much about the uniquely intricate process. In California, the focus is on the highly acclaimed Cabernets. Such is the particular process of the Malbec grape in Argentina. Each region, no matter where in the world, translates to a completely different experience and offers exclusive wine to appreciate.

There are three main wine regions in the Mendoza province: Luján de Cuyo, Valle de Uco and Maipu. We visited the following:

Luján de Cuyo

Bodega Luigi Bosca: Luigi Bosca is commonly recommended in Buenos Aires and offers a fantastic tour and tasting. I am not a big fan of the sparkling wine (espumantes), but this place has a delicious variety to choose from.

Bodega Norton: Malbec single vineyard tasting and tour. A taste is provided throughout the different stages of the fermentation process and you have an opportunity to visit the beautiful, and rustic underground wine cellars. As if wine weren’t enough, the cuisine is definitely something to brag about in the Mendoza province too. Here’s a peek at what we had for lunch at Norton. Highly recommended.

Bodega Carmelo Patti: Spent some quality time with the man himself and absolutely loved him. He works hard everyday and is passionate about his wine. His wine is also distributed in the US (well, when he is ready to release it). Make sure to try the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, it is fantastic and available on Amazon…just saying! IMG_5746

Valle de Uco (wine tour)

Bodega Domaine Bousquet

Bodega Corazon del Sol

Bodega O.Fournier

The bodegas we visited in this region were all equally fantastic! Not only did we enjoy incredible (Malbec) wine, but the view was breathtaking throughout the entire day. Nothing but vines, blue skies and mountain splendor (refer to featured image above). Our favorite region during this trip!

DCIM100GOPROGOPR1873. Although we were only in Mendoza for three days, we were fortunate to spend three weeks in Argentina developing a genuine appreciation for the bold and purple Malbec wine. So, next time you are in doubt, go with a Malbec from Argentina. You will be glad you did. Cheers! DCIM100GOPROGOPR1886. Check out the video below and don’t forget to visit the gallery (click here) to see more pictures.


Video: El Subte

When the option is available, we try to maximize our experience by joining the locals in using public transportation. One of the first things to do when we arrive to any large city like Buenos Aires, is head down to the Subway Station and buy our Weekly or Multi-Ride Pass. Riding the subway, or Subte as it is called in Buenos Aires, is always one of the highlights.

Hope you enjoy the experience of entering the Subte in Buenos Aires.

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40 Ride Pass