Why hike the Inca Trail when you can take the train to Aguas Calientes and catch the bus to Machu Picchu like most people? Three months ago we were thinking, we have the time so, why not? After all, it is considered one of the most famous treks in South America and is rated quite high worldwide. Now, after completing what we can best describe as the most challenging couple days, we realize there is so much more to th
e Inca Trail than we ever anticipated. Somehow, in just 27 miles, it manages to combine a magnificent mountain landscape, sub-tropical jungle, dreamlike cloud forests, impressive Inca ruins and an appreciation for existence as we walk in the footsteps of the Inca to the ultimate reward, the magical lost city of Macchu Picchu. This has been, by far, the most physically demanding experience for both of us and yet, the most inspiring!
For safety reasons and reliability, we booked a tour. Side note: tours must be booked well in advance as there are only a certain number of permits allowed per day on the Inca Trail. We were lucky to book only 5 months before and guarantee a spot. This particular tour consisted of a four-day (three night) trek to Machu Picchu and three additional nights exploring nearby cities and ruins. Or, so we thought. During our first team meeting we were told we would be completing the trek in three days, instead of four, because one of the campsites had collapsed due to a landslide. This meant longer days with accelerated trekking, less time acclimating to the high altitude and less recovery time between treks. Let’s just say we were not jumping up and down at the idea.
Despite this setback and rigorous challenge, we were lucky to share this experience with a group of people that we couldn’t have hand picked better ourselves. We quickly became an Allyu (Qechua word meaning family). We were supportive, encouraging, on pitch (for those who were singing throughout the trail) and helped the team remain positive and excited till the end. In addition to the 15 in our Allyu, we had an amazing team of approx. 25 porters who completed the same trail as us except carrying 25 kilos each! Yes, that’s about 50 pounds. Some carried our duffel bags (13 pounds allowed per person including sleeping bag, etc.) others carried tents, kitchen equipment, food and water. We could not have thanked them enough. Watching them pass us up on the trail carrying so much not only motivated us to keep going, but made us respect their job and cheerful attitude despite the circumstances. Of course, it wasn’t very long before Enoc became best friends with all the porters. Ultimately, the people we met and relationships we formed were the true reward on this trail.
Day 1: Cusco-first team meeting and orientation. Enoc and I had already spent three nights in Cusco getting used to the high
altitude (11,150 ft.) and took the appropriate medication prior to the hike. For the record, altitude sickness is not fun and so many people who visit Cusco suffer from one or more symptoms. The first couple of days it was difficult to complete a sentence due to the low level of oxygen at this altitude. Enoc had the terrible headache that most people experience, but by this day we were ready to go!
Day 2: It was an early wake up call at our hotel, hearty breakfast and off to our starting point at Km 82. We were feeling confident toward the beginning, but did not expect the first trekking day to be so much of an incline and began to worry about soreness for the next day. A total of seven hours on the Inca Trail and 9.1 miles later, we were finally at our first campsite and were prepared to freeze to death as the temperature dropped drastically. This was also where we were introduced to the horrible squat toilets. In the midst of mountains, the porters prepared delicious food and made it extremely difficult to limit consumption. No electricity, but amazing food, ironic! So, yes, squatting was the only option unless you chose the women or men’s bush.
Are you wondering about showers? We practiced the wet wipes showers on the trail. Unless you were seeking to catch pneumonia using freezing cold water in freezing cold weather, you were in your tent wiping down to freshness.
Day 3: Five a.m. wake up call with Inca Trail best practice, coca tea. Drinking coca tea and chewing coca leaves was recommended multiple times per day to help prevent altitude sickness and provide energy. We didn’t sleep very well the first night, but we were ready to face the most difficult day on the trail with a smile on our face. Four hours of combined steps and incline early in the morning leading us to the highest peak on the trail known as Dead Women’s Pass at 13, 800 ft. The last two hours of nothing but steps were brutal. Somehow, we managed to keep a positive attitude and appreciate the incredible scenery on the way up. Besides my nose bleeding throughout the day because of the altitude, we felt great after reaching this high peak. One hundred pictures later, it was time to head downhill for three hours. This was possibly harder than the uphill for many of us.
This day was significant because I had to pee in the bushes for the first time ever in my life. I know, shocking. After a total of 10 hours and 9.1 miles later, we reached our second campsite and nearly kissed the tent. This day was by far the most challenging physically, mentally and every other way. However, the location of the campsite helped us get over it quick. This setting was absolutely breathtaking, but even colder than the first campsite. I think we used everything in our duffel bags that night and layered up.
Day 4: Five thirty a.m. wake up call, coca tea and warm water to wash your face delivered right outside your tent. After a fantastic breakfast and a quick stop at the squat toilets, we were hyped to start this day on the trail knowing we would arrive at the Sun Gate before sunset and catch our first views of the much anticipated Machu Picchu. After about seven hours and nine miles through cloud forest, jungle and too much steep uphill and downhill, the beautiful sight of Machu Picchu amazed us. Some of us were even emotional (totally talking about myself). After this surreal moment and one thousand pictures later, we checked in at a hotel in Aguas Calientes and had a decent shower and most importantly, our kind of toilets.
Day 5: An early morning to enter the lost city for a guided tour and enjoy more exploring on our own. After conquering the Inca Trail, in the midst of clouds, mountains, ruins, llamas and so much history, you can’t help but feel grateful to be standing before such wonder. A magical day indeed. After our visit, we enjoyed a scenic train ride along the beautiful Urubamba River to Ollantaytambo where we stayed for the night.
Day 6: Unfortunately, Enoc and others on our trip suffered from a terrible stomach virus early this morning. In fact, we started dropping like flies later that evening. Still, we managed to push forward and explore the beautiful ruins in the Sacred Valley that were absolutely stunning making it the perfect way to end this adventure.
Day 7: Cusco-dinner and goodbyes. This experience will forever be a memorable one!
To see more incredible photos from our trek visit the Photo Gallery (click here).





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